Embroidery stitches — another 10 exciting techniques

by | Apr 27, 2025 | Blog, Design, Embroidery | 0 comments

Hand embroidery stitches create red poppies and golden wheat

Embroidery stitches — another 10 exciting techniques

Hand embroidery:

10 more stitches to add to your repertoire

Working hand embroidery stitches is a relaxing way to embellish fabric; we can use different fabric, various threads and select from a wide range of stitches. When you have created something with hand embroidery stitches, it could become a family heirloom, treasured by each generation!

Here is a collection of 10 more hand embroidery stitches offering a wide range of effects depending on the colours and textures used.

There are even more hand embroidery stitches that can be found in embroidery books, but the selection here offers a range that expands on the stitches in my last blog post.

As before, I explain how to work each of these hand embroidery stitches, and share a video demonstrating the stitch being made on a plain weave fabric in an embroidery hoop.

A spectrum of colours of embroidery threads

4. Basic hand embroidery stitches

Hand embroidery can be used to create subtle or stunning effects, depending on the combination of fabric, thread and technique selected.

A simple stitch that can be used in several variations and different contexts is running stitch. Using running stitch as the foundation, we can work whipped running stitch, threaded running stitch and double running stitch (Holbein stitch) as variations. Straight stitch and seed stitch are also based on the same concept. While running stitch is simple, it can be used as a building block for more decorative hand embroidery stitches.

Hand embroidery on denim

1.1. Back Stitch 

Back stitch creates a solid line of stitching, and the thread goes back on itself as it is worked (hence the name). The needle should not pierce the previous stitch as it is being worked.

  1. Bring the needle to the front of the work a short distance away from the start
  2. Return the needle to the back of the work going back to the start (working backwards)
  3. Bring the needle the front of the work a short distance away from the original stitch (forwards)
  4. Return the needle to the back of the work through the same point where the first stitch started

Back stitch progresses as the start of each stitch is ahead of the previous stitch, but it is completed by working backwards on itself. This hand embroidery stitch is ideal for creating outlines or areas that can be filled with other stitches.

1.2. Split Stitch 

Very fine ecclesiastical work “Opus Anglicanum” was created by English embroiderers using this technique. Split stitch was used not only as an outline stitch, but as a filling stitch, creating the detail of faces. Unfortunately many of the expert artisans did not survive the Black Death, and subsequent work was not of the same quality and was not held in such high esteem. To read more about this hand embroidery technique, see my earlier blog post that focuses on the Golden Age of English Embroidery.

  1. The needle is brought to the front of the fabric
  2. The needle returns to the back of the fabric a short distance away
  3. The needle is brought to the front of the fabric while piercing the previous stitch
  4. The needle returns to the back of the fabric

Split stitch is similar to back stitch (going back on itself), but it pierces the previous stitch.

There is an interesting book on Opus Anglicanum by Tanya Bentham (details below).

Opus Anglicanum book cover

Title: Opus Anglicanum: A Practical Guide
Author: Tanya Bentham
Publisher: ‎The Crowood Press Ltd (29 June 2021)
Paperback: ‎ 192 pages
ISBN-10: ‎ 178500896X
ISBN-13: ‎978-1785008962

1.3. Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is useful for working the stems of plants; it has some texture as each stitch overlaps with the previous stitch.

  1. The needle is brought to the front of the fabric
  2. The needle returns to the back of the fabric a short distance away
  3. The needle is brought to the front of the fabric about half way along the original stitch
  4. The needle makes a stitch of the same length as the previous stitch (overlapping)

It is important that the new stitch is always on the same side of the previous stitch as the one before, so that each new stitch overlaps in the same way.

1.4. Couching

Couching can be used where a thread is too thick (so that it would leave holes in the fabric) or too delicate (risking damaging the thread itself) to be worked into the fabric directly. The thread is laid across the top of the fabric, and is held in position by small stitches in a hand embroidery thread of matching, complementary or contrasting colour.

1.5. Satin Stitch 

Satin stitch creates a smooth, glossy surface by working straight stitches very close together.

How to work satin stitch, step by step:

  1. Bring the needle through to the front of the work
  2. Take the thread across the area to be filled
  3. Return the needle to the back of the work
  4. Bring the needle through to the front of the work close to the original stitch

Note that the thread will be carried across the back of the work. This creates a slightly padded effect, which can be enhanced by some working stitches in the area to be filled before working the satin stitch. The padded effect could be made more noticeable by working over a piece of felt in the same colour cut to the size and shape!

1.6. Long and Short Stitch 

Long and short stitch is a particularly useful hand embroidery technique where shading is required, for example on flower petals. Only the first row of stitching uses stitches of differing lengths; the following rows are the same length as each other, but are staggered as they follow from the end points of the first row of stitches.

1.7. Flat Stitch 

Where are area to be filled is wide, satin stitch might not be the best choice as the long, straight stitches might be vulnerable to snagging. This is where flat stitch comes into its own! These two embroidery stitches have in common the effect of creating a sheen, but flat stitch interleaves the stitches, working alternately  left-to-right and right-to-left. This technique makes it ideal for working leaves, where each side reflects light from a slightly different angle.

1.8. Chain Stitch 

Chain stitch creates a texture like a linked chain, with each stitch being linked to the one before. It can be effective in representing the bark of a tree or other features of nature. It’s possible to create an impression of greater depth by mixing single strands of different colours in the needle.

Here’s how to work this stitch:

  1. The needle is brought through to the front of the work
  2. A loop is made with the thread 
  3. The needle is returned in the same space (or very close by) where the needle came through the fabric
  4. Hold the loop of thread in place with the thumb 
  5. Bring the needle through to the front of the work so that it holds the loop of thread in position
  6. Create a new loop of thread by returning the needle into the fabric
  7. Bring the needle out again to hold the loop in place 
  8. For the final chain, simply return the needle though the fabric over the end of the loop to anchor it in place.

1.9. Detatched Chain or Lazy Daisy Stitch 

A single detached chain stitch (lazy daisy stitch) can be used to create the effect of small leaves or petals. The chains can be nested inside each other, enhanced by using different tones of thread. 

Here are the steps for working this hand embroidery stitch.

 

  1. Bring the needle through to the front of the work loop and make a loop of thread. 
  2. Return the needle back to the start holding the loop of thread in place with the thumb
  3. Bring the needle to the front of the fabric inside the loop of thread, and secure the loop by returning the needle through to the back of the fabric on the outside of the loop.

1.10. French Knot 

The French knot is one of the few times we welcome a knot in hand embroidery! Obviously, we need the knot to be under our control, rather than appearing spontaneously!

To create a French knot, these are the steps:

  1. Bring the needle to the front of the work.
  2. Wind the thread around the shaft of the needle two or three times
  3. Move the needle close to the fabric by pulling the thread above the loops round the needle
  4. Insert the needle back into the fabric on (or close by) the exit point
  5. Hold the thumb over the knot as the needle is pulled through to the back (for stability)

Decorative effects can be achieved by mixing colours in the needle with French knots.

So popular is the French knot stitch that there are two books that have been published focussing on this technique alone! One uses French knot pictures as inspiration; the other represents traditional knot gardens with French knot stitches. Such a versatile hand embroidery stitch!

French Knot Pictures book cover

Title: French Knot Pictures
Author: Christine Harris
Publisher: ‎Sally Milner Publishing — Milner Craft Series (1 May 2000)
Paperback: ‎ 72 pages
ISBN-10: ‎ 1863512357
ISBN-13: ‎978-1863512350

French Knot - Knot Gardens book cover

Title: Little Book of Parterre & Knot Gardens in French Knots
Author: Christine Harris
Publisher: ‎Sally Milner Publishing — Milner Craft Series (1 January 2001)
Paperback: ‎ 48 pages
ISBN-10: ‎ 1863512829
ISBN-13: ‎978-1863512824

 

2. Summary

I’ve covered some additional decorative hand embroidery stitches in this post — but there are still many more to discover!

If you are interested in extending your repertoire of embroidery stitches, don’t forget that there further techniques available: ribbon embroidery, Hardanger, crewel work, blackwork, Mountmellick, Sashiko, stump work, gold work, shadow work, counted thread embroidery, cutwork, canvas work, chicken scratch, cross stitch… Some hand embroidery stitches cross over into other techniques — and why not? When there is a stitch that creates the effect you seek, use it where you wish!

You might also like to include beads and metallic threads to create some sparkle! Indeed, shisha embroidery includes mirrors which are secured with embroidery stitches, and banjara work adds shells, coins and other embellishments to hand embroidery stitches.

Now that you have seen how to work a range of further hand embroidery stitches, why not start your own project? Crafty Cavy is about to offer a selection of designs to get you started!

If you enjoyed reading this blog post, why not sign up for the Crafty Cavy monthly newsletter?

Hand embroidered flowers in pink and white with green leaves

3. Browse Patterns

If you are looking for some patterns to get you started, why not browse the Crafty Cavy pattern shop?

In addition to knitting and crochet patterns, Crafty Cavy will shortly offer hand embroidery designs!

You might also be interested in joining the Crafty Cavy community, or pop along to my Crafty Cavy page, both on Facebook — and of course Crafty Cavy is also on Instagram!

For practical demonstrations, there are also Crafty Cavy videos on YouTube (some are included in this post) and TikTok.

Lucky Leaves: shamrock and four-leaved clover
NHS Rainbow

Comments, please!

Did you miss the earlier embroidery blog post demonstrating some basic stitches? Catch up on these here: embroidery stitches.

Is there a particular stitch that you plan to try for the first time, or are these already “old favourites”?  I look forward to hearing from you in the comments below!

 

0 Comments

Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *