7 simple hand embroidery stitches to embellish fabric

Hand embroidery is a decorative form of sewing. We might sew pieces of fabric together using stitches that are purely functional, or we might choose to go for a visual and decorative display!

In this post, I discuss fabric, hand sewing needles and embroidery threads suitable for working hand embroidery.

Here is a collection of 7 hand embroidery stitches that can offer a range of effects depending on the colours, textures and number of strands used. Some are related — for example, using running stitch as a starting point for whipped, threaded and double threaded running stitch.

• Running stitch
• Whipped running stitch
• Threaded running stitch
• Double threaded running stitch
• Holbein stitch (or double running stitch)
• Straight stitch
• Seed stitch

There are many more hand embroidery stitches, but the selection here is enough to get started and create pieces to enjoy and create a warm glow of satisfaction and achievement.

In this article I explain how to work each of these hand embroidery stitches, and share a video demonstrating the stitch being made on a plain weave fabric in an embroidery hoop.

1. Fabric

Hand embroidery can be worked on many different fabrics — and even paper!

Typical fabric types include:

Plain weave — this is like the material used for sheets. The thread count includes the number of threads vertically and horizontally, so a thread count of 200 has 100 threads lengthwise and 100 threads widthwise.

Even weave — the warp and weft are clearly visible (unlike plain weave). The warp threads run the length of the fabric, whereas the weft threads run horizontally between the gap threads.

Hardanger — this fabric has twin threads in the warp and the weft. It is intended for a specific kind of withdrawn threadwork known as Hardanger, and is typically 18 or 22 count.

Block weave — the warp and weft are woven in such a way that there are regularly spaced holes through which the needle passes when making stitches. Unlike even weave fabric, the blocks where the threads cross each other is firm, making it difficult to pass the needle through this part of the fabric. Examples of block weave fabric include Aida and Binca. The holes in block weave fabric make it easy for cross stitch — providing full stitches are worked! It can be tricky getting partial stitches made, working into the blocks between the holes.

Felt — this fabric does not have a warp and a weft. It is usually soft, but it can be difficult to work some stitches as they can “fall” through the fabric (French knots, for example).

Jersey — it is possible to hand embroider on knitted fabric, but care must be taken to allow for the natural stretch of a garment made in this way! Embroidering on knitted fabric is an ideal way of  personalising an item of clothing, or masking holes or other damage. It’s worth bearing in mind that jersey stitches tend not to have the same height as width, so if you’re working from a design on squared paper it will appear distorted.

Twill — rather than weaving fabric threads evenly (alternately up and down over each thread), a diagonal weave creating ridges across the surface creates a hard-wearing fabric, for example gabardine or denim. These fabrics are difficult to embroider by hand because of their firm structure.

Muslin — this fabric is light and “floaty”; it does not have a tightly woven structure, so it is better to use needles known as “sharps” rather than chenille or other needles that have a large eye that could distort and leave holes on the fabric.

You might want to use an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric taut — but not so tight that it becomes distorted — while working on your hand embroidery project.

2. Needles

The needles that are chosen for sewing will depend on the fabric selected and the embroidery technique. Needles are available in different sizes to reflect the varying types of fabric available. In addition to sewing needles, you might also want to use a thimble, to help push the needle through the fabric and protect your fingers!

Beading — a fine needle with a sharp point, a long shaft and a long eye; the needle must be able to pass through the beads easily.

Betweens — a fine, sharp-pointed needle which is short with a round eye; these are also called quilting needles are they are ideal for quilting projects

Bodkins — a blunt needle (sometimes flat) useful for sewing up wool or threading elastic through a channel (such as a waistband). Not normally used for embroidery, but could be employed or coarse hessian or sacking.

Chenille — a needle with a sharp point and a large oval eye that can be used for sewing with wool or even ribbon

Crewel — a needle with a sharp point and a large, long eye that is slightly wider than the shaft of the needle. Crewel needles are useful for working tightly woven fabric and come in sizes 1 (the thickest) to 12 (the finest).

Darning — a needle with a sharp point and a large eye, these needles tend to be long and are ideal for repairing fabric, basting (tacking) fabric together in dressmaking, or sewing up knitting or crochet projects.

Millinery — longer, sharp-pointed, ideal for stiffer fabric. These needles have a small, rounded eye which is in line with the shaft, so these needles are ideal for working bullion stitch where the needle passes through several wraps of embroidery thread around the needle. These are sometimes called straw needles — many hats were made from straw!

Sharps — a sharp-pointed needle with a smaller eye (in line with the shaft of the needle); a general purpose medium length needle suitable for many sewing applications, including dressmaking.

Tapestry — a needle with a blunt point (this pushes the fabric threads aside rather than piercing them); the higher the size number, the finer the needle. Tapestry needles are useful for whipped or threaded stitches as they avoid piercing the main thread; they are also ideal for cross stitch, embroidery on Binca and Aida, and working on plastic canvas projects.

There are also other special-purpose needles, such as those used for upholstery, working with leather, or making dolls. Such needles may be longer or curved to deal with the nature of the work required.

3. Embroidery thread

It will come as no surprise to discover that there is an entire spectrum of colours for embroidery thread — but there are also many types of embroidery thread!

Six-stranded embroidery floss — this is a commonly used embroidery thread; although sometimes referred to as “silk”, it is made of pure cotton. There are rayon versions which have an attractive sheen, and also metallic effects for an extra sparkle! Rather than use all six strands, most embroidery is worked with two or three strands. I have even knitted items with two strands using 2mm knitting needles!

Coton perle — also known as pearl cotton, this is a mercerised thread that should not be split; instead, it is available in various thicknesses; the lower the number, the thicker the thread. Coton perle is typically used in Hardanger embroidery, with the thicker thread being used to work satin stitch (known as Kloster blocks) typically in size 8 thread around an area where threads will be cut and withdrawn. The remaining fabric threads are then woven with the finer thread, typically size 12, creating intricate lace-like patterns.

Soft cotton — when working on binca, soft cotton is often used; it has multiple strands that are not split, and gives a smooth finish.

Crewel wool — crewel embroidery is traditionally worked on linen using wool rather than silk or cotton.

There are also special purpose embroidery threads, for example conductive threads that can be used as part of an electronics project! I made a Christmas project using an Arduino LilyPad with a light that goes on and off depending on whether a hand passes over a light sensor — the conductive thread was held in place using couching, rather being worked in and out of the fabric which could have caused the thread to fray.

We can add threads to embroidery that were not originally intended for that purpose! For example, we could add garden twine for a rustic look. This is another example of where couching is a useful technique.

4. Basic hand embroidery stitches

Hand embroidery can be used to create subtle or stunning effects, depending on the combination of fabric, thread and technique selected.

A simple stitch that can be used in several variations and different contexts is running stitch. Using running stitch as the foundation, we can work whipped running stitch, threaded running stitch and double running stitch (Holbein stitch) as variations. Straight stitch and seed stitch are also based on the same concept. While running stitch is simple, it can be used as a building block for more decorative hand embroidery stitches.