Learn 16 genius knitting decrease techniques
It’s easy to pick up your needles and work squares in garter stitch, stocking stitch — or even a variety of stitches — these can be so useful for using up spare wool and making blankets, throws and afghans… Scarves can be made from long strips of knitting, so that’s pretty much the same idea — but lots more rows!
But when it comes to hats, cardigans, jumpers etc, there are some additional skills that we need: increasing and decreasing. Mastering these techniques means the we can create various shapes — more than simply squares and rectangles!
In this article, I shall be covering various techniques for making decreases. Look out for a description of techniques for increasing in the not-too-distant future!
I’ve included video clips to demonstrate each technique I’ve mentioned here; all these clips — and more — are available on the Crafty Cavy YouTube channel! Follow the social media links at the bottom of this page…
Click on any link below to go straight to that particular section, or read through each technique in turn!
- K2 tog — knit 2 together
- K2 tog tbl — knit 2 together through the back of the loops
- SKPO — slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
- SSK — slip, slip, knit
- One Move SSK  — a variation of slip, slip, knit
- P2 tog  — purl 2 stitches together
- P2 tog tbl  — purl 2 stitches together through the back of the loops
- K3 tog — knit 3 together
- K3 tog tbl — knit 3 together through the back of the loops
- S1, K2tog, psso — slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over
- Double decrease — reduces stitches by 2, centre stitch on top
- P3 tog — purl 3 stitches together
- P3 tog tbl — purl 3 stitches together through the back of the loops
- Cast off/Bind off — secures knit stitches underneath
- Cast off purl-wise — casting off with purl stitches
- Cast off in pattern — keeps pattern while casting off
Don’t forget to check out my TOP TIP when it comes to casting off!
1. Decreases
When we need to reduce the number of stitches in a row, we can cast off (for example, under the arms of a jumper or cardigan) or choose from a variety of techniques to decrease one or more stitches (when shaping a neckline, for example).
Different methods are available depending on the effect we are aiming to achieve, such as mirroring left-leaning and right-leaning decreases on either side of a neckline.
Each example is accompanied by a short demonstration video to explain the technique.
The examples of decreasing I’ve included here are for knit as well as purl stitches.
Sometimes a knitting pattern will state “keeping pattern correct”, which means that you’ll need to take into account any decreases for shaping when working the rest of the row, otherwise the stitch pattern could become out of synch.
It’s worth taking the time to work out which stitches need to be above each other in sequence in order to maintain the pattern when decreasing for the armholes or neckline.
2. K2 tog
Knit 2 together (K2 tog) is the classic and most common decrease. It’s easy to work — rather than inserting the knitting needle into the top stitch on the needle holding the stitches, we insert the knitting needle from front to back through the first two stitches on the needle holding the stitches, starting with the second stitch.
We then work these two stitches together. In this way we now have one stitch, where there were two stitches on the previous row.
The only issue is that this method of decreasing always leans to the right; sometimes we want to balance this with a “mirror image” — a stitch that leans to the left — so that the decreases are symmetrical. This could be because we want neckline shaping, or individual pattern items like leaves.
In the image, the row below the decreases is worked in green yarn, then the decreases are worked in yellow yarn. Â This demonstrates that the decreases group together the stitches in the row below. Â The three K2 tog decreases are highlighted in red circles.
3. K2 tog tbl
One option for a decrease that leans to the left is to knit two stitches together, but through the back of the loops.
To work this decrease, we insert the knitting needle through the back of the top two stitches on the needle holding the stitches, from front to back, then working the stitch is the usual way.Â
As we are working through the back of the stitches, the creates a twist with the first stitch lying on top of the second stitch, so it leans to the left.
In the image, the row below the decreases is worked in green yarn, then the decreases are made in yellow yarn. This demonstrates that the decreases group together the stitches in the row below. Â The three K2 tog tbl decreases are highlighted in purple circles.
4. SKPO
Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (SKPO) is a left-leaning decrease technique. What’s slightly different about this method is that the slipped stitch isn’t worked, it is lifted across the next stitch that is worked.
In this image, the row underneath the decreases is worked in green yarn, then the decreases are worked in yellow yarn. This demonstrates that the decreases affect the stitches in the row below. Â The three SKPO decreases are highlighted in yellow circles.
5. SSK
SSK — slip, slip, knit — is another form of left-leaning decrease. By slipping each stitch in turn, we avoid the slight twist that appears at the base if we use knit 2 together through the back of the loops.
In the image, the row below the decreases is worked in green yarn, then the decreases are worked in yellow yarn. This demonstrates that the decreases group together the stitches in the row below. Â The three SSK decreases are highlighted in blue circles.
6. One move SSK
The one move SSK (one move slip, slip, knit) has been popularised by Patty Lyons.
This technique is called “one move” because we don’t slip each stitch off the holding needle individually; we work through the from of the top stitch and the back of the second stitch, and then work these two stitches together. It’s surprisingly easy to work!
This technique avoids the slack that can occur in other decreases (particularly if you give the stitch a little “wiggle” before pulling the yarn through with the working needle).
In this image, the row below the decreases is worked in green yarn, then the decreases are worked in yellow yarn. This demonstrates that the decreases group together the stitches in the row below. Â The three one move SSK decreases are highlighted in orange circles.
7. P2 tog
We can work decreases on the purl side of the work. It may be that the purl side is the right side — if we are making a garment using reversed stocking (stockinette) stitch, or it might be necessary to work decreases on the right and wrong side of the work. Purl 2 together enables us to decrease a stitch on the purl side.
9. Multiple decreases
There are times when we need to decrease more than one stitch at a time, for example when we are decrease under the arm for a sleeveless top, or for a cardigan or jumper to place a sleeve.
Alternatively, we might be creating a lacy effect and we need to balance increases (typically in the form of a yarn over to create a deliberate hole) with decreases to maintain the number of stitches in a row.
In these circumstances we need to use a different approach. It is possible to knit three stitches together or even purl three stitches together! It can be a bit tricky at first, but it’s another useful technique to have.
If we need to decrease more stitches, we can cast off (US bind off). Usually we work the stitches according to the pattern, slipping each stitch over the next one at a time as we work along the row.
Sometimes it’s useful to use a larger size knitting needle when casting off so that the cast off edge has some elasticity and is not too tight.
10. K3 tog
When making a pattern where there is a need to decrease two stitches rather than a single stitch, instead of working two K2 tog one after another, we can decrease two stitches by working knit 3 together (K3 tog), a decrease that leans to the right. This is worked by inserting the working needle into the front of the top three stitch on the needle holding the stitches, from the third through the second and first stitches, then working all three together.
12. S1, K2 tog, psso
With this technique, the decreases point in towards the centre. We slip the first stitch, then knit two stitches together, followed by passing the slipped stitch over the last stitch just made.
You will notice that the slipped stitch takes more prominence than than the two stitches knitted together, but the decreases on each size slope towards the middle.
This is worked by inserting the working needle into the front of the top three stitch on the needle holding the stitches, from the third through the second and first stitches, then working all three together. Â This may feel a little cumbersome at first, but with practice it can be achieved. Â Keep practising!
15. P3 tog tbl
When working on the purl side, we can decrease 2 stitches by working purl 3 together through the back of the loops in order to have a mirror effect of purl 3 together. You might need a little “gentle persuasion” to get the working needle through all three stitches at the top of the needle!
17. Cast off purl-wise
If we are working in reversed stocking stitch (reversed stockinette stitch US), we could cast off in knit stitch working on the wrong side of the work (that’s the inside). However, if we need to cast off on the right side of the work, in order to maintain continuity, we’ll need to cast off purl-wise.
18. Cast off in pattern
If we are knitting a textured item, we don’t want to have a line straight across the end of our work by casting off in knit stitches; instead, we’ll cast off in the pattern we are using, whether it’s ribbing, moss stitch or some other stitch. This will ensure that the cast off edge is in keeping with the rest of the item we are knitting.
An exception to this would be if we are casting off two edges together; in these circumstances, we can cast off knit-wise, knowing that the stitches on both pieces will match exactly!
19. Summary
There are several options available for working a decrease in knitting as you can see.
You might prefer to “hide” your decreases close to the seam, or you might want to go for the fully-fashioned look by setting your decreases in a few stitches from the seam. Either way, it’s useful to have a variety of techniques available so you can choose which works best in different contexts.
You might have a favourite technique because you like the way it looks, or you find it easier to work than some of the others. After looking at the examples I’ve covered here, you might be tempted to try a new method which will become a favourite!
The important thing is to select a method that works for you in a particular project — it is important to enjoy making as well as wearing or giving your knitted item as a gift!
20. Browse Patterns
If you are looking for some knitting patterns to get you started, why not browse the Crafty Cavy pattern shop?
To start on your knitting journey, have a look at some easy patterns first, such as the pleated headband design.
There’s also an-easy to-make friendly fish Tango, or why not make a selection of fish in different colours from the Friendly Fish collection?
You might also be interested in joining the Crafty Cavy community, or pop along to my Crafty Cavy page, both on Facebook!
Comments, please!
Do you have a “favourite” technique for making a decrease? Will you try another method to see whether it works well for you? Please share your views on decrease methods in the comments section. I look forward to hearing from you!
Very comprehensive and easy-to-follow instructions for a knitter who, like me, hasn’t knitted anything other than rows of stocking stitch in childhood. I will keep this for a long time as a handy guide. Thank you.
I’m so glad you found it useful! There’s an example of k2tog decreases in my latest pattern: Classic beret